he Complete AC Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Copper, Refrigerant & Maintenance Before Any Technician Visit

In the summer of 2026, my central split air conditioning units suddenly stopped working. Anyone who has lived through a Saudi summer knows what life without an AC means. I called multiple technicians, and each one gave me a different diagnosis: one said the compressor was broken, another claimed the refrigerant needed refilling, and a third insisted the circuit board was burnt. I spent thousands of riyals on phantom repairs—until I called a trusted technician who turned out to be genuinely skilled. The real issue? The copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units —low-quality copper with a thickness incompatible with the refrigerant type. Thousands of Saudis have lived this same story. The main reason is that most people don't understand how an air conditioner works, what its critical components are, or how to distinguish a skilled technician from a scammer. In this guide, we'll explain everything about air conditioners in painstaking detail so that no one can deceive you again. First: Why AC Systems in Saudi Arabia Are Different from Everywhere Else Saudi Arabia is one of the hottest countries on Earth. Summer temperatures exceed 50°C in many regions, which means an air conditioner isn't a luxury—it's a survival necessity. This extreme heat creates enormous strain on AC systems: The compressor runs for long uninterrupted hours. The refrigerant reaches extremely high pressures (up to 700 PSI in R-410A systems). The copper pipes face continuous thermal stress. The outdoor units are exposed to scorching sun and sand-laden dust. All these factors make selecting, installing, and maintaining an AC in Saudi Arabia completely different from cooler countries. Any installation or maintenance error gets multiplied by the heat. Second: Types of Air Conditioners in the Saudi Market Before diving into copper and refrigerant details, let's understand the AC types you might have: Split AC: The most common type in Saudi homes. It consists of two units: an indoor wall-mounted unit and an outdoor unit, connected by copper pipes and an electrical cable. Central Split AC: A single system serving the entire home, with concealed indoor units in the ceiling and an outdoor unit on the rooftop or yard. Window AC: A single integrated unit installed in a window or wall opening. Less energy-efficient but cheaper to install. Ducted AC: A central system with air ducts distributed across rooms. Cassette AC: Ceiling-mounted, common in offices and shops. Key difference: Split and central split ACs require copper pipes between the two units , while window ACs don't need external copper since everything is contained inside. Third: Copper Pipes - The Heart of Your AC That Most People Ignore This is the issue that personally caused me major problems and, in my opinion, the most important AC component after the compressor itself. Copper pipes carry the refrigerant between the outdoor unit (compressor) and the indoor unit (evaporator). Any defect here means a defect in the entire system. Types of Copper Used in Air Conditioners There are two main copper types in the market: Pure Red Copper: This is the only certified copper for AC systems . It offers high flexibility, excellent pressure and corrosion resistance, and a long lifespan. Brass (Yellow Copper): A copper-zinc alloy. Never used in air conditioning —it's only for plumbing. If a technician installs brass for your AC, fire him immediately. The Three Grades of Red Copper (Critically Important) Red copper itself is divided into three grades based on wall thickness : Type K (Thickest): The strongest and most expensive. Used in heavy industrial applications and groundwater systems. Type L (Medium): This is the certified grade for most residential and commercial split ACs. Balances price and quality. Type M (Thinnest): Cheapest and thinnest. Avoid entirely for AC use. This is what scamming technicians use because it's cheaper. Copper Sizes by AC Capacity Every AC has specific copper sizes stated in the manufacturer's catalog. Here are the common sizes: 1 Ton AC (12,000 BTU): 1/4" liquid line + 3/8" or 1/2" gas line. 1.5 Ton AC (18,000 BTU): 1/4" liquid line + 1/2" gas line. 2 Ton AC (24,000 BTU): 1/4" or 3/8" liquid line + 5/8" gas line. 2.5 Ton AC (30,000 BTU): 3/8" liquid line + 5/8" gas line. 3 Ton AC (36,000 BTU): 3/8" liquid line + 3/4" gas line. Note that every AC has two copper lines : a thin one (Liquid Line) and a thicker one (Suction/Gas Line). If a technician mixes them up or installs wrong sizes, your AC won't cool properly or will fail quickly. Required Thickness by Refrigerant Type Here's the critical issue most technicians overlook: R-22 Refrigerant (old, now banned in Saudi Arabia): 0.7mm copper thickness is sufficient. R-410A Refrigerant (currently widespread): Copper thickness must be at least 0.8mm because this refrigerant operates at much higher pressures (up to 700 PSI). R-32 Refrigerant (newest, most efficient): Minimum 0.8mm thickness. The problem: Many technicians use copper with 0.5mm or 0.6mm thickness on R-410A systems to save money. The result is copper that can't withstand the pressure and develops internal cracks within 2-3 years (this is exactly what happened to me). Maximum Copper Length Each AC model has a maximum permissible copper length, typically between 15 and 30 meters . Exceeding this length weakens cooling and increases power consumption. This information is in the AC catalog, but most technicians don't read it. How Long Does Copper Last? Original certified copper (like American Mueller): 15 to 25 years . Low-quality or thin copper: 3 to 5 years before leaking starts. Copper with poor installation (over-tightening, sharp bending): Could fail within a year. How Technicians Scam You with Copper The most common tricks: Using thin Type M copper and claiming "it's the same thing"—the thickness difference is 30-40%. Using a smaller copper size than required to save money (e.g., 1/2" instead of 5/8")—resulting in weak cooling and compressor strain. Poor insulation or cheap insulation that degrades quickly in the sun. Sharp bending of copper without proper bending tools, weakening the internal wall. Improper Flaring (the conical fitting that tightens against the nut). Using recycled copper from old installations and selling it as new. Fourth: The Complete Truth About Refrigerant How many times has a technician told you, "The AC needs refrigerant refill"? This is one of the most common scammer phrases. Let's understand the truth: Refrigerant Does NOT "Get Consumed" - A Widespread Misconception Refrigerant operates in a closed loop . It circulates between the indoor and outdoor units continuously and never depletes under normal conditions . If refrigerant levels drop, it means there's a leak somewhere . There's no such thing as "routine refrigerant refill." 90% of Refrigerant Leaks Are Internal This is critical information that technicians use to scam you: according to global statistics, 90% of refrigerant leaks come from inside the copper pipes themselves (microscopic holes called Pinhole Leaks), not from visible joints. The main cause: Formicary Corrosion —a chemical reaction between copper, moisture, and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) found in cleaning products and air fresheners. This reaction produces formic acid, which drills microscopic holes in the copper. The Correct Way to Detect Leaks A skilled technician performs these steps: Pressure Measurement: Connect a Manifold Gauge to read pressures in liquid and gas lines, comparing them against expected values based on outdoor temperature. Nitrogen Test: Evacuate refrigerant and pressurize with nitrogen at 150 to 300 PSI , then wait 30-60 minutes. If pressure drops, there's a leak. Soap Bubble Test: Spray soap solution on joints. Bubbles indicate the leak location. Electronic Detector: A highly sensitive device that detects refrigerant in the air. UV Dye: Adding fluorescent dye to the system, then using a UV light to spot the leak location. Critical warning: If a technician says, "Let me refill refrigerant without leak testing," fire him immediately. He's a scammer because refrigerant that drops today will drop again in a week or month. Refrigerant Types and Differences R-22: Old. Banned in Saudi Arabia because it damages the ozone layer. If your AC is old and uses R-22, you must replace it. R-410A: Most widespread currently. Requires 0.8mm copper thickness. R-32: Newest, more efficient, environmentally friendly. Used in modern ACs. Important: Types cannot be mixed. If your AC uses R-410A, you cannot refill it with R-32 and vice versa. Fifth: Step-by-Step Indoor Unit Cleaning You can clean the indoor unit yourself without a technician, saving 30% of your electricity consumption. Bi-Weekly Filter Cleaning Completely disconnect power from the AC at the breaker. Gently open the front panel of the indoor unit (it lifts upward). Carefully remove the cloth or plastic filters. Vacuum the dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wash filters with warm water and mild liquid soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry in the shade (not direct sunlight). Reinstall in the same direction. Deep Cleaning (Every 3 Months) Disconnect power. Cover the area beneath the AC with a plastic bag to collect water. Open the panel and remove filters. Spray specialized AC cleaning spray (like Domo Clean) on metal fins and evaporator. Let it react for 10-15 minutes. Rinse with clean water using low-pressure spray (never use high pressure—it damages fins). Dry with a dry cloth. Reassemble and run the AC on Fan only mode for 30 minutes to fully dry before cooling. Sixth: Outdoor Unit Cleaning The outdoor unit is the heart of the cooling system . Any dust accumulation on the fins weakens heat dissipation and doubles the load on the compressor. Safe Steps to Clean the Outdoor Unit Completely disconnect power from the main AC breaker. Remove leaves, branches, and bags stuck to the outer mesh by hand. Use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner to remove dust from fins. Spray with clean water from a garden hose at low pressure, from inside to outside (in the opposite direction of air intake). Avoid spraying water on the electrical panel or central fan. Check fin straightness. Bent fins reduce efficiency. A special tool called a Fin Comb is used to straighten them. Let the unit dry for a full hour before reconnecting power. Ensure clear space around the unit (at least 60cm on all sides). Important tip: Outdoor units in Saudi Arabia face heavy dust exposure. Clean every two months , especially before summer begins. Seventh: Window AC Cleaning Window ACs are different because they're a single unit. Cleaning requires extra steps: Disconnect power and unplug the AC from the socket. Remove the front frame (usually with screws or clips). Take out the filter and clean it the same way as a split AC filter. If you can remove the AC from its outer frame: Detach mounting screws. Pull the AC carefully (usually needs two people due to weight). Inspect the drainage tray and clean it from algae and mold. Clean the back fins (condenser) with a soft brush. Carefully clean the front fins (evaporator). Clean the fan of dust. Inspect the foam insulation between the AC and the wall. Any gap leaks cold air outside. Reinstall in the same order. Eighth: Common Error Codes in LG Air Conditioners Here are the most common codes that appear on LG AC displays and what they mean: CH01 / E1: Room temperature sensor fault. Needs sensor replacement. CH02 / E2: Indoor coil sensor (evaporator) fault. CH03 / E3: No refrigerant detected - system leak. CH04 / E4: Drainage issue (drain tray is full). CH05: Communication error between indoor and outdoor units (connecting cable). CH06: Outdoor unit temperature sensor fault. CH07: Conflicting operating modes in multi-systems. CH09: EEPROM (electronic memory) fault. CH10: Indoor fan locked. CH21: IPM (Intelligent Power Module) fault. CH22: High compressor current. CH23: Low DC voltage. CH26: Compressor fault. CH27: PSC (power circuit) fault. CH32: High discharge pipe temperature. CH35: High outdoor unit current. CH38: Refrigerant leak (severe drop). CH41: Discharge sensor fault. CH44: Outdoor air temperature sensor fault. CH45: Outdoor coil sensor fault. CH53: Unit communication fault. CH60: Main PCB (electronic board) fault. CH61: High condenser temperature. CH62: High Heat Sink temperature. CH65: Heat Sink sensor fault. CH66: Connecting cable issue between units. P1 / FL: Drainage tray full. P2: Same drainage issue, especially in humid weather. For other ACs like Samsung, Sharp, Carrier, and General—error codes are similar but vary. Always refer to the AC catalog or search "AC model + error codes" online. Ninth: Pre-Technician Inspection Checklist Before calling a technician and paying 200-500 SAR for a visit, check these things yourself: Check the circuit breaker: Sometimes it's tripped without you noticing. Check remote control batteries: If the remote doesn't work, replace them. Check the thermostat: Ensure it's on Cool mode and set to a low temperature (16-20). Check filters: If extremely dirty, clean them first and test cooling. Check the outdoor unit: Is the fan spinning? Is the compressor making sound? Check water drainage: If water drips from the indoor unit, the tray is clogged. Check cooling intensity: Place your hand in front of the indoor unit—is the air very cold or lukewarm? Place your hand behind the outdoor unit—is the air very hot? Record the error code: If a code appears, look it up before calling. Check copper insulation: If damaged and exposed, this weakens cooling. Listen to AC sounds: Strange noises (clicking, gurgling, whistling) indicate specific problems. Tenth: How to Choose a Trustworthy AC Technician These signs separate a skilled technician from a scammer: Trustworthy Technician Signs: Brings a Manifold Gauge to measure refrigerant pressure. Brings a Multimeter to test electrical panels. Inspects before diagnosing. Doesn't say "the problem is X" the moment he walks in. Explains the problem in simple language before starting repairs. Gives a clear price before starting, not after finishing. Provides a warranty of at least 3-6 months on repairs. Has a documented business name or positive reviews. Uses genuine spare parts and shows you the boxes. Scammer Technician Signs: Says "needs refrigerant refill" without testing. Immediately says "the compressor is broken" (the biggest scam to sell you a new AC). Has no testing equipment , just a screwdriver and pliers. Demands upfront payment before starting. Doesn't provide an invoice or written warranty. Pressures you for quick decisions and rushes you. Says "this copper is enough" without measuring your AC capacity. Eleventh: Preparing Your ACs for Saudi Summer Before summer arrives and temperatures rise, do these steps for your ACs: Clean all filters for every AC. Wash outdoor units with low-pressure water. Inspect copper pipe insulation. If damaged, replace it. Check water drainage from indoor units. Test ACs two weeks before summer and verify cooling. If there's an issue, you have time to fix it before the heat. Inspect remote controls and replace batteries. Install a Surge Protector to protect the AC from power fluctuations. Check electrical cables —cracks can cause fires. Set the thermostat to 22-24 degrees (the most energy-efficient range). If your ACs are over 10 years old , seriously consider replacing them. New inverter ACs save 50% on electricity. Conclusion An air conditioner isn't just a device that cools air—it's a complex system with highly sensitive components, the most important being the copper pipes connecting its units . Any error in copper selection, thickness, or installation costs you thousands of riyals in the long run. Skilled technicians are rare in the market, while scammers are plentiful. But if you understand AC basics yourself, it becomes hard for anyone to deceive you. Take your time choosing a technician, ask precise questions, demand testing before any judgment, and never rush into refrigerant refills or compressor replacements without conclusive evidence. Most importantly: Regular maintenance costs far less than major repairs . Cleaning filters every two weeks, washing outdoor units every two months, and a comprehensive inspection before every summer—these three habits will extend your AC's lifespan and save you thousands of riyals in electricity bills and breakdowns. Your property is your largest investment, and air conditioners are an essential part of its value and the comfort of its inhabitants. Don't leave their maintenance to just anyone—learn the basics and be the primary decision-maker for your own home.

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